Boost Machine

UPDATE:- Right now, as good as the boost machine is, I have removed mine as it was eating into my fuel bills and am currently testing an alternative which I'll report on when ready.

Well this is going to be a hard one to explain but there are already plenty of explanations out there on the net.

However before you carry on, this is one of those mods that if you are sensible, its a highly effective mod but you are playing with your boost delivery so you should be cautious with adjustments and access to a boost gauge is essential

For Information Start Here:-

Scott Morrow

Its basically a manual boost controller but some additional thought has gone into making it a much more effective mod.

What it does is allows you to precisely adjust your boost and control wastegate creep to your needs...It is a simple 10-15 minute install. It combines a high quality and precise Metalworks pressure regulator and a Norgren relief valve for tailoring boost and wastegate creep to your desire. Also has a Norgren one-way check valve to hold pressure during shifts

It comes fully assembled and ready to install...Including custom aluminum bracket, hoses, clamps and instructions..everything you need for a simple install.

The Boost Machine kit
Its very well made, looks like quality construction, always a good sign.

A closer look

Installing is simple, the rubber hose is removed from the base of the N75 and connected to the brass connector
The Boost machine rubber hose is connected to the base of the N75

TIP: Remove the air box lid to give you more access. I didn't until later! doh!

The bracket simply bolts onto the firewall using an anti-rollbar bolt.
It can be mounted to lift up as shown here:-

or reverse it if you have other things in the way, to hold it lower.

Follow the instructions to set it up, don't go mad, less is more so just try things out, it is essential to have access to a boost gauge or be proficient at vagcom logging to check what you are doing.

Boost is stronger, the car pulling better than ever, I may be reaching torque limits as ESP seems to be kicking in on gentle turns and 1st gear launches in the DRY! boost is being held longer and is higher on reapplying the throttle.

This is a fantastic mod, I'm really pleased with it.

UPDATE:- I have done some logging to check my fuelling with the changed characteristics and it all looks good to me.

Some Background Info:-

A stoichiometric or ideal air/fuel ratio is 14.7:1 which means that there are 14.7 parts of air and one part fuel. The reaction of this mixture would produce emissions that contained only carbon dioxide and water, no fuel or oxygen would be left. At an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 the oxygen sensor voltage signal would read 1.0 volt on a narrow band sensor and 2.5 volts on a wide band sensor. If the air/fuel ratio mixture is rich (more fuel than air) than the sensor would read fewer volts or conversely if the mixture is lean (more air than fuel) the O2 sensor would read a larger voltage. If the air/fuel ratio is richer than 11.7:1 (0.8 volts) or leaner than 18:1 (1.22 volts) the engine won't run.

Sometimes it is desirable to run either leaner or richer than 14.7:1. If your goal is to produce maximal power output of the engine, as with forced induction, you'll want to run a richer air/fuel mixture around 12.5:1. The additional fuel in the cylinder will not burn. For example if we added 2 parts fuel to 14.7 parts air only one part of fuel will burn and do work. This is because there is not enough air to burn the second part of the fuel, remember that one part fuel combines with 14.7 parts air in a stoichiometric reaction. This unburnt fuel takes up valuable space in the cylinder but in forced induction applications cylinder temperatures can skyrocket and cause detonation. This extra fuel provides an anti-knock or cooling effect allowing for more power to be produced.

If you ran at an air/fuel ratio of 12.5:1 all the time you would really waste a lot of fuel but fortunately you don't need to. Normally it is only necessary to enrich the fuel mixture under load i.e. when boosting or engaging nitrous at all other times it is better to run a little leaner than 14:1. Running a lean air/fuel ratio will improve your gas mileage but be careful if you run too lean you will cause your combustion chambers to overheat. Running lean under power destroys engines because the combustion chambers get so hot that the pistons fall apart under the stress which is mostly due to pre-ignition. This will defiantly make for a bad day very fast.

The following is a lambda value table showing the Air/Fuel Ratios for different fuels

Here are some recent logs which look to me like fuelling is fine.

Click here for the entire log in Excel Format.

Click Here for a Bosch PDF on Emissions