Eclipse Lights & Clear/Smoke Corner
Fitting - Instructions

These instructions are to add Eclipse Lights and newOSIR Design colour indicator corner to a TT.

Tools:- Jack,
Axel stands,
 Hot Air blower,
 Wheel brace & Torque wrench (120nm),
Full range of Torx bits,
Medium/Large Philips driver,
Long reach 10mm socket driver,
Pipe clamp for alien pipe if needed,
Some small and medium blade screwdrivers,
Araldite or silicone based high temp. adhesive,
Optional- Soldering Iron & Heatshrink


NOTE: If your car is too low for a trolley jack, drive onto a piece of thick wood to give you height for the jack.

Jack up the car and remove the front wheels, Use axel stands for safety

NOTE: get an empty plastic box or tray to collect your screws as you go along.

Remove the water bottle cover

Remove the Battery Cover and all six pegs holding the front cross member cover panel in.

NOTE: the pegs are 2 stage then they drop out which you don't want to happen.....

Use a small rod but hold your finger tight against the rod around 5mm back, when you push the peg let your finger be the stop point to avoid the peg dropping into the engine bay.

NOTE: Once the pegs are pushed, use 2 flat tools to lever the head and entire peg body out, as they are under tension, they could pop out, make sure a thumb or finger is stopping them to catch them before they fly off and disappear into the engine bay

Remove the entire plastic cover across the front of the car, you will then have access to the 6 Torx screws at the front holding the bumper....remove them, slide off the metal clamping strip and put it to one side.

Remove the indicated Torx Screws to release the front of the wheel arch liner and push it to one side to allow access to the chamber behind the bumper.

Remove the 2 large Philips screws from the lower front bumper

There are 2 10mm bolts either side, 1 is accessible from the top half of a chamber, the other from the lower chamber, loosen and remove these bolts.

Below is a picture of the bumper pulled out to show you, just inside the wing there is a single torx screw facing vertically down which must be released

There are also 2 more torx screws that must be loosened from inside the wing...

.....Shown below from inside

NOTE: With all the above screws undone on both sides at this stage the bumper cover is fully released and only the connection pipe for the "aliens" needs disconnecting so the front could be removed (this can be done on the passenger side of the bumper cover, use a pipe clamp to stop the washer tank draining)........however It does not need to be removed for this process and if you are working alone it you only need to pull one side at a time, out a few inches to continue this process.


There are 3 torx screws holding the headlamp, 2 visible on top and 1 behind the grill.

Pull one side of the bumper out a few inches and undo the Torx screw using a straight diver through the grill

Undo the 2 top torx screws, the headlamp is ready to remove....

NOTE: the picture below highlights a rubber seal which is push fitted to the headlamp, through out this process ensure its retained and does not fall out.


...The 2 pictures below show a peg on the headlamp unit .......

....and the bracket into which it slots, the headlamp must be pushed slightly towards the middle of the car when removing, take care at this stage, the looms are still connected.

NOTE: be careful not to scratch the headlamp, masking tape on some bumper areas/corners may be a good idea to apply.

As you remove the headlamp reach behind and unplug the main connector, also rotate the indicator bulb holder and withdraw the holder and bulb complete.... the headlamp is free to be withdrawn



NOTE: its best to do this indoors as the indoor temperature will help the heat process keeping the adhesive tacky and soft.

Remove 4 metal clips from the lens, 2 top 2 bottom.

NOTE: this process should take around 10 minutes to remove the lens, i.e. don't rush it.
BE CAREFUL, you need to warm the area to make the glue tacky, do not keep heat on a single area for any length of time as you will risk melting or distorting your headlamp.

Take a Heat Gun or hair dryer, a flat nozzle one is beneficial....

....Start to heat up the area around the lens/body join.....

....Work your way round.....

.... this should take around 5-7 minutes slowly warming up the join....


Then using a flat blade screwdriver, apply some leverage to the top points where the metal clips where removed.
Do not be afraid of bending the plastic.....

...Keep gentle pressure on and hold..the lens will begin to creep out...

If you have 2 flat screwdrivers handy then you could try to lever both points at the same time.

....The lens will begin to detach.....

....Apply some finger pressure to assist the lens.....

.......Use a stanley knife to cut through the adhesive......


.....Repeat the procedure for underneath to completely detach the lens.

If you are not doing the Clear/Smoke corner mod go to Eclipse-Lights.

With the front removed you can see the amber indicator lens and 3 main upper tabs holding it.

This plastic is brittle so use the heat gun to warm up the plastic up and prepare it for the lens to be removed.

With the plastic warmed up the end of the lens can be released gently

Once one end is out the rest should release easily

The clear/smoke lenses are left/right handed so find the matching lens and simply click it in place.

2 torx screws hold the indicator reflector in, undo them to release it.


NOTE: Use the original lens to make an internal lens.
NOTE: Araldite 2-pack contact adhesive (5 min epoxy)
glue or high temp silicon adhesive is required

Use a heat gun to bend into a V shape

Dremmel to size and shape to fit reflector

Glue into Position allowing space and breathing for the heat generated from the bulb


At this point if you are only doing a Clear/Smoke lens go to Re-fitting the lens


The Eclipse kit consists of 2 or 4 rings depending on application, 2 inverters capable of powering 2 rings each
 some cable ties and scotch locks to aid installation.

NOTE: The rings are extremely fragile take great care handling them.


A deep area behind the indicator reflector is perfect for mounting the inverter


Ensure the inverter wiring is tucked through to the rear chamber of the lamp.

NOTE: If your indicator lens is dry then refit the reflector.


Install the Eclipse ring onto the the main beam surround by pushing the clips firmly onto the edge
taking care with the rings as they are fragile.
No glue is required as there is no weight to hold the rings on and the clips are tight.

The Clips can also grip up to 2 wires to help guidance

Nows the time to decide on a ring angle to set to.


Tap into the inverter wiring in the sidelight circuit by either using the supplied scotch locks
or if you know how to solder, then solder into the wiring from the sidelight bulb, the small bulb under the main beam H7. Ensure you use heat-shrink to insulate the joints.

NOTE: Remove the H7 bulb, as it is sensitive to fingerprints, until this procedure is done.

NOTE: Remember the 2 inverter outputs must be accessible from the rear, ensure they are,
as in the cluster of white leads shown here inside the housing.

Tidy up the cables using cable ties.


Refitting the Lense

Use a small driver to push some of the adhesive back, work around the whole lamp.

NOTE: If your indicator reflector lens is dry and has not been fitted do it now.

Use your heat gun to warm up the adhesive on both the lamp body and the lens.
Spend a few minutes warming them up working around all the joints.


Then quickly feed the ring loom through so it will be accessible from the rear of the box.

Aim for this corner when feeding the loom through to the back.

NOTE: Check you can get to the lead you have fed from the front, at the back before pushing the lens back on.

Squeeze the lens back in and apply even pressure all around the joint while the adhesive is still soft

The 4 CLIP points which where levered up to remove the lens should be warmed up with the heat gun
and flattened, refit the metal clips while the points are still warm.

Now connect the ring connector you fed through from the front to either of the inverter leads
and refit your H7 bulb.


Then off to test it and check all lighting is working.

Refitting is the reversal of removal.