Changing the Front
Anti Roll Bar

 

I took a copy of this posted by Richard_Tricky from the TT Forum, it may be useful if you intend to try this yourself.
 

I used these photos from Ttschwing (many thanks) here :-
http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/anti-rollbar_stuff/neuspeed_22mm_front/
to help me in replacing the bar.. all credit goes to Ttschwing for the pics not me. i just did the write up bit.



1. Get car up on ramps; remember to locate your ramp supports on the rubber stops under your tt for correct lifting of car. Remove front wheels. And also remove the plastic cowling under the car to expose the engine and bits…

2. Remove the 2 bolts at each end of the roll bar that are attached to the drop links. While you are there remove the xenon adjustment sensor attachment bolt (passenger side) and place the bar that the sensor is attached to out of the way somewhere

3. Remove the bolts that hold the bushes on and remove the bush and clamps note which way the bush is located on the clamp and roll bar… also: there are 2 bolts on the left hand side bush. 1 that clamps the bush on and the other which supports the power steering pipes. A 13mm socket will remove these bolts

4. get some rope or straps and tie up each end of the steering rack to the suspension springs. This will prevent it from dropping when you remove the sub frame.

5. Next proceed under the car; you will see 4 bolts in the centre of the sub frame. These hold the power steering rack to the sub frame, remove these. The steering rack is now loose. Use a bar to gently pry the steering rack away from the sub frame if it stiff.

6. Remove the 2 bolts that are attached to the dog bone?? Engine mount. The mount comes from the sub frame and attaches to the centre of the engine.

7. You are now nearly ready to lower sub frame. The easiest way to safely lower the sub frame is by using another jack with a long bar such as scaffolding bar which supports the frame as your lowering it.

8. Remove the 2 big front sub frame bolts that that are towards the front of the car. You should see the rack separate from the frame slightly. You will need a HUGE power bar to get these bolts off as they are very very tight.

9. Remove the 2 large sub frame bolts(again with the bloody huge power bar) towards the rear of the car. THE SUB FRAME IS NOW LOOSE!!!

10. NOW GET SOMBODY TO HELP YOU HERE. Carefully lower the jack that the sub frame is on, so that there is at least 2 inches of separation between the steering rack and the frame. You should now be able to remove the bar. Do this by removing the bar towards the driver’s side of the vehicle. NOTE the bar can be a pig to get out but take your time and look at the path the roll bar will take to remove it from the car.

11. you may have to gently move some power steering pipes a few millimetres to get the bar out and to get the new one back in… these pipes are made of rubber so will move quite easily.

12. The easiest way to get the new bar in is from the drivers side..

13. Now jack the sub frame back up and reattach the 4 big sub frame bolts, but do not tighten as you may have trouble lining up the power steering rack bolts.

14. next reattach the power steering rack bolts and also finally tighten up the sub frame bolts and check that no power steering pipes are out of place.

15. attach the 2 dog bone engine bolts and tighten.

16. Place your new bushes onto the roll bar and place clamp onto bushes and tighten bolts. Do not forget to reattach the second bolt that the power steering pipe is attached to. Note.. you might at this point want to add some sort of lubricant to the inside of the bush to stop possible creaking.. I used 100% pure silicone… not the stuff you buy at DIY stores!! But proper silicone that does not dry.. some people have also used wax oil, wd40 etc. Do not use oil based products as these will rot the bushes!!!!

17. Now reattach the drop link bolts and also reattach the sensor that adjusts the xenon’s.

18. Remove your straps and re attach your plastic cowling covers to the bottom of the car.

19. Put your wheels back on and your done

20. You do NOT have to have your alignment redone as you do not touch or move any of the suspension components. However this bit is up to you.

21. After a few days just recheck your bolts that hold the bushes in place for any movement etc.



And for the legal bit. I dont not take any responsibility for you or anyone else that might feck themselves up or their TT by following this write up. this write up is purely my obvservations and you follow this write up at you own risk. dont blame me if your engine or suspension falls out of your car while you decided to play grease monkey for a day with your buddies and a few cans of larger in your front garden. this job is a bugger YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!