Changing the Front
Anti Roll Bar
I took a copy of this posted by Richard_Tricky from the TT
Forum, it may be useful if you intend to try this yourself.
I used these photos from Ttschwing (many
thanks) here :-
http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/anti-rollbar_stuff/neuspeed_22mm_front/
to help me in replacing the bar.. all credit goes to Ttschwing for the pics not
me. i just did the write up bit.
1. Get car up on ramps; remember to locate your ramp supports on the rubber
stops under your tt for correct lifting of car. Remove front wheels. And also
remove the plastic cowling under the car to expose the engine and bits…
2. Remove the 2 bolts at each end of the roll bar that are attached to the drop
links. While you are there remove the xenon adjustment sensor attachment bolt
(passenger side) and place the bar that the sensor is attached to out of the way
somewhere
3. Remove the bolts that hold the bushes on and remove the bush and clamps note
which way the bush is located on the clamp and roll bar… also: there are 2 bolts
on the left hand side bush. 1 that clamps the bush on and the other which
supports the power steering pipes. A 13mm socket will remove these bolts
4. get some rope or straps and tie up each end of the steering rack to the
suspension springs. This will prevent it from dropping when you remove the sub
frame.
5. Next proceed under the car; you will see 4 bolts in the centre of the sub
frame. These hold the power steering rack to the sub frame, remove these. The
steering rack is now loose. Use a bar to gently pry the steering rack away from
the sub frame if it stiff.
6. Remove the 2 bolts that are attached to the dog bone?? Engine mount. The
mount comes from the sub frame and attaches to the centre of the engine.
7. You are now nearly ready to lower sub frame. The easiest way to safely lower
the sub frame is by using another jack with a long bar such as scaffolding bar
which supports the frame as your lowering it.
8. Remove the 2 big front sub frame bolts that that are towards the front of the
car. You should see the rack separate from the frame slightly. You will need a
HUGE power bar to get these bolts off as they are very very tight.
9. Remove the 2 large sub frame bolts(again with the bloody huge power bar)
towards the rear of the car. THE SUB FRAME IS NOW LOOSE!!!
10. NOW GET SOMBODY TO HELP YOU HERE. Carefully lower the jack that the sub
frame is on, so that there is at least 2 inches of separation between the
steering rack and the frame. You should now be able to remove the bar. Do this
by removing the bar towards the driver’s side of the vehicle. NOTE the bar can
be a pig to get out but take your time and look at the path the roll bar will
take to remove it from the car.
11. you may have to gently move some power steering pipes a few millimetres to
get the bar out and to get the new one back in… these pipes are made of rubber
so will move quite easily.
12. The easiest way to get the new bar in is from the drivers side..
13. Now jack the sub frame back up and reattach the 4 big sub frame bolts, but
do not tighten as you may have trouble lining up the power steering rack bolts.
14. next reattach the power steering rack bolts and also finally tighten up the
sub frame bolts and check that no power steering pipes are out of place.
15. attach the 2 dog bone engine bolts and tighten.
16. Place your new bushes onto the roll bar and place clamp onto bushes and
tighten bolts. Do not forget to reattach the second bolt that the power steering
pipe is attached to. Note.. you might at this point want to add some sort of
lubricant to the inside of the bush to stop possible creaking.. I used 100% pure
silicone… not the stuff you buy at DIY stores!! But proper silicone that does
not dry.. some people have also used wax oil, wd40 etc. Do not use oil based
products as these will rot the bushes!!!!
17. Now reattach the drop link bolts and also reattach the sensor that adjusts
the xenon’s.
18. Remove your straps and re attach your plastic cowling covers to the bottom
of the car.
19. Put your wheels back on and your done
20. You do NOT have to have your alignment redone as you do not touch or move
any of the suspension components. However this bit is up to you.
21. After a few days just recheck your bolts that hold the bushes in place for
any movement etc.
And for the legal bit. I dont not take any responsibility for you or anyone else
that might feck themselves up or their TT by following this write up. this write
up is purely my obvservations and you follow this write up at you own risk. dont
blame me if your engine or suspension falls out of your car while you decided to
play grease monkey for a day with your buddies and a few cans of larger in your
front garden. this job is a bugger YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!